Chicago’s vibrant food scene continues to offer a dynamic blend of opulent new ventures and cherished regional traditions. As dining critic John Kessler of Chicago magazine observes, the city is experiencing both ambitious reinventions of classic dining and the subtle, yet significant, rise of beloved cocktail trends from neighboring states.
The Alston: A Gilded Age Steakhouse Experience
At the heart of recent dining news is The Alston, a lavish new steakhouse that has opened its doors in Chicago’s River North neighborhood. Helmed by Michelin-starred Chef Jenner Tomaska and the Fifty/50 Restaurant Group, The Alston aims to reimagine the traditional Chicago steakhouse. The restaurant, which officially opened on May 30, 2025, is designed to be an immersive experience, drawing inspiration from 1920s Paris salons and London’s exclusive supper clubs. Its interiors feature velvet banquettes, mahogany paneling, and even digital projections on the ceiling, creating a dramatic and opulent atmosphere.
Kessler, in his review for Chicago magazine, described The Alston as “big, opulent fun,” noting it is the city’s “glitziest new steakhouse”. He characterizes it as a “three-ring circus” that offers an ever-unfurling maze of dining spaces, private clubs, and patios, aiming to provide an over-the-top experience that appeals to those looking to “splurge”. While acknowledging the restaurant’s ambition and the impressive spectacle of tableside preparations, Kessler also points out that the establishment “still needs a little refining,” suggesting that not all the food execution reaches the heights of its dazzling surroundings. Nonetheless, The Alston represents a significant new addition to Chicago’s upscale restaurant landscape, seeking to capture the essence of a Gilded Age dining experience.
The Wisconsin Old Fashioned Takes Root in Chicago
Beyond the steakhouses and fine dining, Chicago’s cocktail culture is embracing a distinct regional favorite: the Wisconsin old fashioned. This iteration of the classic cocktail typically features brandy, muddled fruit, sugar, and bitters, topped with soda, setting it apart from the whiskey-forward version more common elsewhere. What began as a staple in Wisconsin supper clubs is now gaining traction in Chicago establishments, offering a unique twist on a familiar drink.
Several Chicago restaurants and bars are putting their own spin on the Wisconsin old fashioned. L. Woods Tap & Pine Lodge in Lincolnwood, a spot that emulates the Wisconsin supper club experience, offers a popular “Frozen Sconnie” old fashioned. Daisies has introduced a clever version incorporating local spruce tips for a woodsy note, paired with brandy and rye. Gus’ Sip & Dip provides an approachable brandy old fashioned, noting its longer, more drinkable profile compared to whiskey versions, and offers it with choices like 7Up or Squirt. Charis Listening Bar also features a notable brandy old fashioned using Armagnac and Luxardo maraschino cherries. This trend highlights Chicago’s openness to integrating flavors and traditions from its neighboring states, offering a delightful new option for cocktail enthusiasts.
A Broader Snapshot of Chicago’s Food News
These developments reflect the ongoing dynamism of Chicago’s food news. From reviewing ambitious new restaurants to spotlighting burgeoning cocktail trends, the city’s culinary landscape is constantly evolving. Chicago magazine, through its dining editors and critics like Kessler and Amy Cavanaugh, continues to provide comprehensive coverage, including discussions of notable dishes like New Haven-style pizza. Other recent reports highlight the arrival of acclaimed new restaurants, such as Feld, which was named one of America’s best new restaurants of 2025 by Bon Appétit, further cementing Chicago’s status as a national culinary powerhouse.
Conclusion
Chicago’s restaurant scene remains a rich tapestry woven with threads of innovation and tradition. The Alston stands as a testament to the city’s capacity for grand, ambitious dining experiences, while the increasing popularity of the Wisconsin old fashioned demonstrates a delightful embrace of regional culinary identity. These trends, alongside a steady stream of new openings and critical reviews, ensure that Chicago continues to be a must-visit destination for food lovers.
